I have a question about rotten wood on a classic sailboat? - sailboat wood stove
My son and I are renovating in 1961 gaff rig designed Crocker cut. It was out of the water and checked his ribs - 1 replaced with new cards, there are about 18 years. The bottom was painted last 2 years, and we expect that in the late spring, fully finished. I noticed an area on the outer shell where the paint is cracked and the wood is spongy surface (an area about 4 inches square) - above the waterline to the top center of the roadway. Is there an acceptable (and safe) solution to this place, to replace the tables?
Monday, February 15, 2010
Sailboat Wood Stove I Have A Question About Rotten Wood On A Classic Sailboat?
5 comments:
Put a picture of the affected area to better advice.
It is likely that what you see is just the tip of the iceberg.
We hope a replacement only tables.
You can loop a little bit more, or use a Dutchman, but like a sore thumb if we are to you. The tail, to restrict the movement of the wood and are easy to see lines of adhesive in the course of time.
Avoid the cost of repairs.
I use to clean energy to forward old wooden boat, I am a carpenter to repair the holes in the first place, so I cut the bad area, more than two inches, then took a piece of marine plywood the same thickness of the wooden hull and cut the size of the hole and then cut a larger piece of seconds, then the first and the exploitation of marine epoxy glue, the smallest in the middle of the largest.
to fill with epoxy on the inner rim around the hole inside. Then apply apoxy dry for the next opportunity to leave, sand and paint. The key is a apoxy to buy.
You can not improve the response of Captain Bill, he is absolutely correct.
However, as a short term solution if you're lucky, the problem will prevent the spread, you can try to make all other colors or varnish the wood dry well, then you sit down with WEST epoxy or similar.
If you try this, manufacturers WEST (Gougeon Brothers) recommend the epoxy resin, cons dilution, since they have the strength significantly lower than the undiluted mixture. However, to achieve a strong market penetration, use a heat source (like a hair dryer) to heat the wood to reduce the viscosity, and less hardener available even maintain a reasonable working hours.
In fact, when I visited Poole Yacht Club in 2005, Ilearned not see (but to) a beautiful classic yacht, which was ripe to be repaired not with conventional methods, but she was naked and left to dry for 12 months, and then "pickled" with epoxy and sailed again - so beautiful as ever - and now seems stable and seaworthy.
However, it must be provided the best way to replace the rotten wood of a new timber.
Replace the repair and maintenance as epoxy, which not only lead to tragedy if you want less> get how the coast it 'right first time and worry once, How do you> know where the red, and if the area can and the water only as a tactical or off a lot of drama that could have been avoided>
On the condition of the vessel, including the steep slopes, I would say that sounds good because it dinghies epoxy after damage. But I would not try to force in a strong breeze. Or rather, probably (because I'm an idiot), but you should not, if the value of your boat.
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